Pmag

[shadowhawk]

Dave, the gun you sold me today came with a mud cap but there is a button on the bottom and idk what it's for? Someone please help

[ghost]

Not a button it's probably a piece you remove to pull the spring out. Unless pmags aren't like other plastic midcaps

[shadowhawk]

Its really heavy for a midcap

[shadowhawk]

and dave, is the gun lipo ready?

[MotorMouth93]

You push the button on the bottom all the way down and the baseplate of the mag will slide off. Then you take out the small hex screw underneath it and a plastic piece that holds the inside of the mag to the shell will come off, and you can slide the insides out the top of the mag. (no springs will pop out so you don't need to worry about that) The inner part of the mag will have a plastic piece on the side that is the stopper for the spring, it can be popped out if you ever need to take the mag apart.

[shadowhawk]

thanks. the gun is a brand new moe m4. anybody know if that is lipo ready? it sounds like its shooting 17-20 rpm with a 8.4v battery

[88B88888B88B888]

There is really no such thing as a lipo ready gun. But you can hook a lipo up to any gun really. How long it will last is a different thing.

[shadowhawk]

ok. does anybody know how long it would last on lipo?

[sasquatch]

it really depends on the bushings you have on it and the motor thats in it along with the gears and on a lipo you can wear out your contacts and your gun wears much quicker than on a normal like 8.4 or 9.6

[dave OC-6]

YOU KEEP AWAY FROM LYPOS, WITH YOUR HISTORY YOU WILL CATCH THE THING ON FIRE..... AND YES I KNOW THE CAPS ARE ON!!!!!

[MotorMouth93]

Edit: Dave posted while I was typing this, but if you're the guy who managed to light your standard battery on fire then you don't need to be messing with LiPos.

Sept 16, 2012 16:17:46 GMT -5 sasquatch said:

it really depends on the bushings you have on it and the motor thats in it along with the gears and on a lipo you can wear out your contacts and your gun wears much quicker than on a normal like 8.4 or 9.6

-Bushings aren't important as long as they're steel.
-You don't need to change the motor, but aftermarket motors are far superior in most cases.
-You don't need to change your gears.

To reliably run a 7.4v LiPo you don't need to upgrade anything.

An 11.1v LiPo battery is a different story. Proper piston angle of engagement and good shimming are crucial. Also, as flare said, you will wear out your trigger contacts much quicker unless you install a MOSFET.

[shadowhawk]

how much will it cost to hve someone set it up to run an 11.1v lipo? and how much faster will it run and break down?

[dave OC-6]

here is what you should have to run a lypo
high volt wire and trigger set.
high speed gears
high speed motor
diffrent piston and piston head
tappet plate

total in parts about 200-300 for the parts if you want it to not have issues any time soon....
the gun may last 2-3 years or 2-3 min depending on many factors like burst rate, and how long you hold the trigger down,

[shadowhawk]

Is the gun I bought worth investing that much? And how much for an auto winding drum/box mag?

[shadowhawk]

Oh, and I got the ak receiver switched but I can't get the piece that has the hop up back on because of the fuse. It's to fat

[dave OC-6]

rerout the cable to the other side, i have done it 50 times, it will fit.

[sasquatch]

IT WAS ONE TIME ONE TIME DAVE AND IT WASNT MY GUN IT WAS THE ONE WHO LIKES TO HIT GUNS WITH HAMMERS LOL just sayin hehe but yeah if you want a higher fire rate or something of that nature go with a 9.6 or like 10.8v nimh battery lot easier and the only reason it caught on fire is cause he had faulty wiring ;D

[shadowhawk]

Is he talking to me? Cause he's the one that set that gun on fire. He plugged in the battery and the wiring shorted out and started smoking. I come back a month later and the story had changed to I set the gun on fire

[sasquatch]

no not you lol my friend toffee lol

[shadowhawk]

and my gun came with 2 extra black flash hiders so i can replace the orange one but i cant get the orange one off. anybody know how?

[Foggy (CR4)]

Is there a set screw? Could be thread locked, so heat it up with a hair dryer for 10 mins then carefully use a wrench to remove the flash hider, in the correct direction. Compare your replacement parts to see if it is a CCW or CW thread.

[Foggy (CR4)]

May try search function on the forums, pretty sure this has been brought up before. If that fails YouGooglize it!

[dave OC-6]

go and see your paster and he can do it.

[shadowhawk]

How much would it cost to get 5 tan magpul midcap pmags for m4?

[shadowhawk]

And it's a classic army/ magpul gun if that makes a difference about the flash hider.

[Foggy (CR4)]

Should be a CCW thread.

[shadowhawk]

i still dont know how to get it off. i cant find the screw. i dont think there is one. i think its just glued

[Foggy (CR4)]

I explained it earlier, if it's just glued on, take a heat gun or hair dryer to it for a 5-10 mins then take a wrench and unscrew it. Look at the threading for the other flash hider to determine which way to turn the wrench. Not Rocket Surgery, or Brain Science... Just heat and Twist.

[shadowhawk]

Alright. Will it be reusable later cause it's just plastic. Idk if the heat will warp it

[dave OC-6]

NO, its plastic you want to take it off without damaging the threads. heating it is one way. i cut the outside of the flash hidder with a knife and use a vice grip to crack it around and take the parts off. if you mess around and try to save the cheap one you take a big chance at messing up the threads on the brl. NOT good.