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Post by Midas on Feb 24, 2013 2:33:27 GMT -5
My birthday is coming up this week (woot 21!) and i want to go ahead and began the process of upgrading my AEG internals. I have a good electronic and repairing background but i am just not sure how to take the dang thing apart (my real guns seem easier to take apart then my airsoft stuff) The rifle is a Echo 1 red star CPM ( echo1usa.com/x/guns/redstar-series/cpm/) I know I want to shim the gears and replace the bushings as well as the air nozzle, spring (m110) and guide. Anything else while I am at it? If anyone can point me to some links on the net on how to take the dang things apart (I am technically apt) that would also be epic as I just can't seem to find anything. |
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Post by MotorMouth93 on Feb 24, 2013 15:19:52 GMT -5
Taking apart an AK is kind of a pain, but it's not too difficult. Youtube would be your best bet, as explaining it with text would be difficult and confusing. This video looks alright.>Clean out all grease >Radius cylinder window corners for safe measure (not really necessary for a V3, but it won't hurt) >MOSFET, new wire, and Deans Ultra Plugs. Everything you ever wanted to know about AEG electronics.>Replace bushings only if stock ones are not solid steel (replace bearings or plastic bushings) >Bearing spring guide >Reshim gears using this guide and correctly set motor height >Correct sector to piston angle of engagement using a sorbo pad of appropriate thickness >Replace piston head o-ring with a #14 ring from a hardware store >Properly relube everything and make sure compression is perfect, a new nozzle will make this much easier >Put the gearbox back together >Clean your barrel >Replace the hop up packing with PDI W-hold or Prometheus>Seal it to the barrel using dental floss >Invest in a 7.4v lipo (or 11.1v if you want) and charger, this will cost $30 - $40 and will be the best thing you will ever buy. I know this looks like a long list, but most of the things on it are free or extremely cheap. |
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Post by Midas on Feb 24, 2013 17:29:37 GMT -5
yep i actually planned 2/3 of that stuff. Do you want to use white lithium grease for the box or is there something else that works better? Have a 9.4v stick night now so i think im going to wait on the lipo (have the correct charger though if i ever wanted to get one). Thanks for the o-ring tip that is something I never would have thought of. I took some of it apart today and found it has a madbull hop-up stock.
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Post by MotorMouth93 on Feb 24, 2013 19:02:10 GMT -5
Madbull hop up packings aren't very good IMO, switching it out would probably give a noticeable boost in performance.
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Post by Midas on Feb 25, 2013 0:09:02 GMT -5
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angrygiant
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Rising Power / Team Leader
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Post by angrygiant on Feb 25, 2013 12:38:10 GMT -5
I'm in N Austin (35 & wells branch parkway~). I've got a chrono, a bazillion AEG parts, and can fix anything with v2 and v3 gearboxes.  |
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angrygiant
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Post by angrygiant on Feb 25, 2013 12:39:58 GMT -5
Madbull hop up packings aren't very good IMO, switching it out would probably give a noticeable boost in performance. I agree - the madbull ones aren't great. I've found the standard evike/"matrix" branded ones with two contact points are actually great for your $. Not like r-hop, but they've been reliable so far. |
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Post by Midas on Feb 25, 2013 14:48:29 GMT -5
I'm in N Austin (35 & wells branch parkway~). I've got a chrono, a bazillion AEG parts, and can fix anything with v2 and v3 gearboxes. maybe be willing to show a bro out on how to work on a gearbox? I can toss in a 6 pack for good measure  On the hop-up I am seeing replacements for the whole assembly or do i just need the bucking? (such as this www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_71_368&products_id=41033) |
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Post by MotorMouth93 on Feb 25, 2013 16:36:07 GMT -5
Just the packing, replacing the whole hop up chamber is unnecessary unless yours is broken.
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angrygiant
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Post by angrygiant on Feb 25, 2013 16:47:36 GMT -5
If it's a plastic hop up: replace it. Slapping of a magazine into the mag well will cause it to break soon, anyway.
If it's metal - just the bucking.
6 pack sounds fair
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Post by dave OC-6 on Feb 25, 2013 18:14:57 GMT -5
just make sure its a (diet or lite ) 6 pack.  just messing |
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Post by MotorMouth93 on Feb 25, 2013 18:51:55 GMT -5
If it's a plastic hop up: replace it. Slapping of a magazine into the mag well will cause it to break soon, anyway. If it's metal - just the bucking. 6 pack sounds fair He'd be fine with the stock one for quite a while, I had a 6+ year old UTG AK that never had a problem and was ridiculously accurate with the stock hop up and barrel. If you want a metal one though it won't hurt. Make sure it's not Keystone or Natty.  |
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angrygiant
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Post by angrygiant on Feb 26, 2013 1:23:05 GMT -5
just make sure its a (diet or lite ) 6 pack. just messing Ya give some of that piss water MGD 64 lol |
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Post by Midas on Mar 2, 2013 1:04:37 GMT -5
Ok I am trying to take off the orange tip so i could replace it with the all metal version I got from a friend. I have tried a heatgun and boiling the dam thing but can not get the pin pushed in to start the unscrew process. Anyone have any ideas? www.dropbox.com/s/6dl3ojymfo0lnz4/2013-03-01%2023.52.49.jpg?m |
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Post by MotorMouth93 on Mar 2, 2013 1:15:14 GMT -5
I'd suggest you first take off the front sight assembly altogether to prevent any damage to the rest of the gun from whatever you do to it. After you have the front sight off of the gun, get a hammer and a punch (or screwdriver if you don't have a punch) and gently tap the pin in, if it doesn't move at first hit it a bit harder. You should have no trouble moving it this way. After you get the pin pushed in, tape a coin or something hard and flat over it to keep it from popping out while you unscrew the flashhider. To get the flashhider off, wrap it in a few layers of electrical tape and then just use pliers. Remember that it is a counterclockwise thread, so you'll turn it clockwise to remove it. (righty loosy, lefty tighty  ) |
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Post by Midas on Mar 2, 2013 1:19:36 GMT -5
What unjaming rod? I have already taken the whole front end off so I would not damage anything else to the gun. The front sight will not budge even though i removed its screw. I did find this but I dont see it being much help, however my rifle doesnt have the screw under the flash hider.  According to the manual and youtube your just supposed to push that pin in (its on a sprint) then just untwist... On mine thats just not happening. I am almost to the point where I just want to take a dremel tool to the hider. |
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Post by Foggy (CR4) on Mar 2, 2013 6:20:09 GMT -5
I ran into similar issues with my Spetznas, the pin had more glue than the flash hider did. I had to put a torch onto the pin directly for a few minutes, then tap it in with a punch and hammer. It took a few good hits to budge. Then the flash hider still required me to use a pipe wrench to remove it.
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Post by Midas on Mar 2, 2013 21:40:41 GMT -5
Well Good news and bad news and then decent news Good news is that i got the flash hider finally off (mother of gawd that was glued on) Bad news: The front sight is made out of cheap pot metal and the 14mm threads snapped right off (yes I know its reverse threaded) Decent news: echo 1 sells the replacement front sight Positive thing is that the flash hider is now off so i can replace it with a small suppressor to make it more like the "tacticool" real steel *update*: looks like the original orange flash hider has a 14-larger thread adapter on there... however after drilling it out it seems they soldered it on the flash hider meaning it was NEVER designed to come off in the first place (damn import laws) anyways the new front sight is on its way. www.dropbox.com/s/kvyjg0xsx0fnyai/2013-03-02%2021.40.00.jpg?m |
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