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Post by Rabit TFS on Jun 7, 2012 20:39:23 GMT -5
So I diagnosed the problems that I had with my M4 yesterday. The piston teeth practically don't exist anymore which isn't a big deal I can just replace it. I need to correct my AoE which I may need soe help with. The main problem is my anti reversal latch spring broke. Does anyone have any idea where I can get another one or do I even need it? One more thing my trigger pull is acting up and I was wondering if anyone could help me with that. It still pulls the whole way but its really rough and is clicking about halfway throught the trigger pull.
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Post by 88B88888B88B888 on Jun 7, 2012 21:05:51 GMT -5
That Clicking is due to your trigger sear not staying engaged on trigger housing contact switch/slide. To fix that you need to reposition your trigger housing unit so that it remains in contact the whole time. Sometimes the bottom lip of the slide can wear out you can either replace that or just replace the whole thing. usually happens more often when you use Semi auto all the time. I have a lot of spare springs but wont be at the field till the 16th you can get one from me then if you can wait that long
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Post by Rabit TFS on Jun 7, 2012 21:40:20 GMT -5
That Clicking is due to your trigger sear not staying engaged on trigger housing contact switch/slide. To fix that you need to reposition your trigger housing unit so that it remains in contact the whole time. Sometimes the bottom lip of the slide can wear out you can either replace that or just replace the whole thing. usually happens more often when you use Semi auto all the time. I have a lot of spare springs but wont be at the field till the 16th you can get one from me then if you can wait that long Thats what it is then. My trigger response is great so I rarely use full auto. |
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Post by 88B88888B88B888 on Jun 7, 2012 22:25:11 GMT -5
Ya, mine went out on my DMR while back on the er25k. The hard trigger pull could also be coming from the trigger return spring. Mine started to get very hard to pull then suddenly just crapped out. So might want to consider replaceing that soon too.
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Post by Rabit TFS on Jun 7, 2012 23:00:18 GMT -5
Ya, mine went out on my DMR while back on the er25k. The hard trigger pull could also be coming from the trigger return spring. Mine started to get very hard to pull then suddenly just crapped out. So might want to consider replaceing that soon too. Im scrapping a gearbox tomorrow for the parts until the replacement upgrades get here in the mail. |
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Post by goober6644 on Jun 7, 2012 23:01:51 GMT -5
i have all those parts rabbit that you and poo listed if you need them soon.
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Post by Rabit TFS on Jun 7, 2012 23:10:18 GMT -5
i have all those parts rabbit that you and poo listed if you need them soon. I've got some. I had a full gearboz just lying around. I haven't taken it apart yet though so I don't know how good of shape they're in. I'll text you if I need anything. |
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Post by ghost on Jun 8, 2012 20:41:15 GMT -5
Do ak rifles have the same problem if you use semi auto all the time
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Post by 88B88888B88B888 on Jun 8, 2012 22:28:51 GMT -5
It's possible yes.
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Post by ghost on Jun 9, 2012 8:33:05 GMT -5
Ok. I'll have to watch that on my rifles.
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Post by MotorMouth93 on Jun 9, 2012 19:05:30 GMT -5
-For the AR latch spring, you can get the spring out of a spring loaded pen, straighten it out, and then bend it into shape. I had to do it a few months ago and it worked out great, cheap too.
-For the AoE, the best way to do it is to get a piece of sorbothane rubber of the correct thickness and glue it to the cylinder head. I think clandestineairsoft.com sells sorbo pads. Sorbothane also has excellent shock transfer/absorbant properties, so it can extend the life of your gearbox shell quite a bit.
To determine how thick it needs to be, put the piston and cylinder assembly, along with the sector gear, in the gearbox. Push the piston all the way in and draw a line on the piston where the cylinder ends. Now rotate the sector gear around until the first tooth of the sector is making the most contact with the pickup tooth of the piston, you want the force spread out over the whole tooth, not just the corner of the tooth. Once you find the position of the correct angle of engagement, mark where the cylinder ends on the piston again. The distance between the two marks is roughly the size of the spacer you need, but you need to take into account the spring causing the sorbo pad to compress a little bit.
You'll also need to shave off the whole second tooth on the piston and a good portion of the third to keep the sector from hitting them first. Shave off as much as you need to keep the piston from touching them before it hits the pickup tooth.
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Post by Diamondback on Jun 9, 2012 20:17:02 GMT -5
Awwww this reminds me I have 3 gearboxes to fix this is gonna be a long week  |
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Post by 88B88888B88B888 on Jun 9, 2012 21:43:05 GMT -5
Just an adding to the Sorbonne pad mod, adding to much can also reduce fps.
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